Its not very complicated, really. Thanks to all the posts here!!! You can open up both the old and replacement valve, and just swap the fronts of the valves, containing the recalcitrant circuit board, leaving the back part that connects to the gas pipes in place. Make sure the thermostat wires are plugged in to the top of the board. Also remove heat sensor to check possible problem, no issue. Mineral buildup on the valves temp tensor cap the metal part that sticks into the tank could cause the high limit situation by delaying the rate at which true water temperature reaches the thermal sensor. At least then Ill have a stockpile when the water heater is out of warranty. Keith, the manual says 7 flashes means Gas Control electronic fault 4. Any ideas? It arrived today within 24 hours. Unscrew one screw at the bottom of the gas valve. They didnt ask any questions or ask for the old one to be returned. -thanks. After a lot of Internet searching (and some unsuccessful attempts at repairing) I finally came upon this site after another 10hr work day Thursday night! The valve is known to be defective and maybe they will help ? The two wires (red/white) pluged to the honeywell box front rightside, power the box, make sure the wires are not loose, refer to diagram, mine were loose had to reattach with tiny plyers. Gently wiggle out the housing. I did put a piece of electrical tape near the end of the ground wire given my tendency to reverse things. For $75 theyll come out to asses. Days Later after reading further I turned the main gas off, and removed the gas valve and the Torx security screws ( that have a pin to prevent regular Torx from entering the screw head). Light the pilot as before. Im an Innkeeper with few local options for help or assistance and will be following some great advice here. It is interesting to note that 106F is normally just about as hot as you can stand in the shower. If at first you dont succeed, try, try again. Hogwash!! Time will tell. 37 sold. Put the cover back on temporarily with the connector still disconnected. They would have to diagnosis the water heater and then order the part, and then come back again to install at an additonal service price. They do have technical PDFs for the revision A and B valves thought those sheets do not have Un-fubar information listed. 2. Turn off the gas, just to be on the safe side, even though were not going to be messing with the pipes. I tried several times, and flushed the tank. Getting some hugs and kisses from the wife. I turned the knob to just the Hot setting and it fired up ! My question is.do I flush out the tank 1st before I do anything else.I have no idea on make and modelits raining here and I cant check on it since its on the outside of my homeI want to see if I can fix it myself before I need to pay or just all out replace it I came home from a 10hr workday Wednesday to a cold shower! $211.94. Since my valve is under warranty, I will be replacing it. So, again Sears says they need to send a repair guy out. To RaulDLCs 3/25/2015 post: CORRECTING LAST SENTENCE: main valve (Right pin to (+), So I would recommend to you ( with Valve off the water heater and no gas applied, to test the pilot valve (left pin to (+))with the AA battery, and test the main valve (Right pin to (+)), and each individually should click, photo of pilot valve solenoid I have always had it at one above on A. Then plugged them in and lit pilot. Either solution is unacceptable. . I have a white LED and my code of 4 flashing lights wont reset. I havent opened the valve yet out of curiosity but from what I read here, the Capacitor sounds like a good culprit. Within a couple minutes it reverted to 1 flash, and is working fine. After about ten minutes the flashes changed back to the normal one flash operation. when I drained it I observed no sediment ! I had issues let the unit sit and drain. 4. The Wt8840 Series Is The Water Heater Control For Trade Use to replace WV8840 valves on AO Smith water Heaters. Cold water for 3 days in winter. My hat is off to all of you. I had the local utility company come check it and the inlet pressure was right on the money. Checked the wiring. Buy It Now. And two finger-pressable connectors at the top. I tried the simple unplug and reset for 10 minutes and plug back in it worked awesome. The same issues and the dreaded 4 flashes of death. Now there is no danger of releasing gas. free! be similar to whats being discussed here, except my Whirlpool has electronic ignition and a flue damper that opens and closes. This time they are sending me a new gas valve for free overnight. Start the pilot by moving the knob to 6 oclock and press it in to start the gas and press the piezo starter button on the cover (you have to press the button between two fingers so it will not pop out of the cover it is possible to get shocked so maybe use a glove) several times until it lights. DO NOT RECOMMEND WHIRLPOOL HOT WATER HEATERS WITH HONEYWELL GAS CONTROL VALVES! This controller issue is a serious concern for me as I often leave for weeks at a time with the rest of the family to tend to the fort, but they would not know what to do, so I shall have to give specific instructions with pics etc. Thank you for your terrific post. I spoke with Whirlpool (Honeywell gas valve) and they sent me a new valve. For sure theyre going to have a lot of unhappy customers. Thanks for you insight. Its not the likely culprit, but possible. I suspect it to be calcium and salts. Made in United States. Light the pilot light as normal. Thanks for the above suggestions. Good info here, had 4 flashes, remove white valve cover after lighting pilot, place a jumper wire across two posts that were right side top , pilot quit, waited, relit pilot, turn gas control to low, main burner lit. This happened again a day or 2 later and again, after a short while, the status led reverted back from the 5-flash red to the 1-flash blue. I will be calling the Whirlpool number to see if I can get a replacement valve unit before this one goes out for good! I tried to call Honeywell just to ask and they wont give me any info because I didnt have the model number on me. So while they said just use the sealant through out, I actually used a combination of both. 17 product ratings. Any ideas? If this problem happens again I plan on wiring a small push-button to the two top terminals and mount it the plastic cover for an easy reset switch! (no blinks, no pilot) Turned it around and clipped it back in and went through the lighting the pilot light. I will ** sorry, I took no pictures; the capacitor is round, about 1/2 diameter, about 1/2 tall, dark color. Can you believe this crap! Whirlpool send me a new igniter/flame sensor and it does the same thing. Thank you Tyler and all the responses. upstairs. Make a jumper out of phone wire about 10 long. This crap adds $15,000+ to our new automobiles. This is actually minerals and should be drained. It takes a T-15 screwdriver to remove the cover. So the fault condition DID (initially) reset itself. Takes one screw driver to unscrew the one screw on the bottom of the controller. 3: Snap the cover back onto the heater (so you can light the pilot-light). Just make sure you label (or cell phone picture) where the wires go, to be able to return them, and then disconnect all the wires. Im not certain it works in all cases, but if it does, youre all set to go. I have no status light. Free! Can you let me know if your WH is still working? Although, it wouldnt hurt to turn the gas off at the water heater line by twisting the valve into the horizontal position. Had to do it twice for it to reset. That sounds reasonable. The led light will go off and the pilot will shut off as well. Little white plug stays with wire ribbon. I let the water sit until the water in it is no longer hotthe last shower usually takes care of that. you will get a 7 flash error. It refused to even start. Lastly, be VERY careful when ordering your replacement unit, in that one has a square COM plug with four pin slots. I guess Water heaters are now interactive devices requiring yearly maintenance. As many others have suggested, perhaps this is the event which started the fail process? I used the short across the top left and right connectors while everything was still connected method as my problem was a straight 7 flash error. I also drained a small amount of sediment from the bottom of the tank, which was mostly brown water. Here is what I did with pictures to solve this issue. The water heater would not work properly right out of the box. Get it from e-bay, just look at picture to make sure it only has red & white wires to the right and NOwire to left side under COM.. Got the same 4 blinking lights Saturday . They said they couldnt do anything about that. Replaces Old . I bought the rheem propane water heater6 months ago now its giving me problem 2 blinks every 3 secondsTHERMOPILE voltage low. Mine got here today, wont be changing it. I then end up on the Low setting. Just for reference THISpicture shows the wire that attaches to the control board. It took right off and has been working fine. 8: Once the status is blinking, set the temperature to desired level. From this thread it is not true that the 4 flash fault is fatal. okay at this point with circuit boardhave no clue..please step by step for dummies pleasecannot remove it from whitish housing.appears a screw of some sort and also something that looks like glass attaching to it? https://www.flickr.com/photos/7428166@N07/13946540277/. The combo of using the battery trick as well as just running wires from the posts rather than unscrewing the module worked perfectly. I hope it helps someone. This is what he had me do: Who came up with the dumbass design that when you turn the dial to a normal, albeit high, position, it breaks the water heater? NOW MY WIFE WILL THINK IM SOMEONE IMPORTANT. Where is it located exactly? I pay for labor and after much debate they agreed to pay for parts. Just to let everyone know, the above fix by DB works! Their knowledge and expertise has a value. I am beyond pissed, Reliant has a warrantee but it dont cover parts!!! 40 gal, nat gas, no external attachments. Forgot to add one more important bit of informationI do not have any error codes, the red light blinks for standby mode and shows a heartbeat while the pilot light is on and continues despite the burner failing to ignite. I followed your instructions to clear the fault and they worked fine. So far its been working fine. I closed the cover again and lit the pilot again. One of the comments below, describes a way to do this by hooking a battery to a couple of connection points on the board. Theres a little white reset button on the plate covering the combustion chamber, but that doesnt seem to have any effect!?! That is the valve mechanism. You dont have to drain the tank or disconnect any gas lines. worked for me. On my particular Honeywell gas valve, model WV8840B1109, the error codes indicate the following: FLASHES STATUS 0 Control Off/Pilot Out 1 Normal Operation 2 Thermopile Voltage Low 4 High Temperature Shutdown 5 Temperature Sensor Failure 7 Gas Control or Valve Failure 8 Flame Sensor Error Its two pins go through the board. I am extremely grateful for this information! day installed it i had bad problems to lite, i called Co. they asked if a professional installed it, i told tech ive installed over 15 water heaters & never had this type of trouble, he kind of said that since im not a pro-with licence thats why its not lighting, i told him i didnt like this valve sytem & all 15 water with the old school red dial out lasted the 9 yr some worked till 12 years & why would i ever give $400 to install something i could do & i do know what Im doing just that this system not working at all, i got it 3 years & I got one of the lucky ones, the (2nd one)was built 07/20/2015 i got a call Fri 29th,16 my tenant said water heater stopped working & i had showed him how tom lite it in case im not around & it turns off, he tried many times, depress 1 1/2, 2 min, 3 min & nothing, i got a chance to look into it & i had assumed E-Z fix 5 min ill have it & running, wrong spent hour doing everything instructions had, i asked my tennat at what temp he had it on, he said a lil past the letyter (A) when i installed it i had told him never pass (A) i remember a friend who owns several homes (7) & he told me many nitemare stories of the Honeywell Valve status lite (poop)he was dealing with 7 faulty valves had to pay hotel 3-5 days while they ship parts, even then the water heater co. diagnosed problem wrong, he said a couple times they told him it was the thermopile that was causing pilot lite not to stay on, he waited for part, ordered the Valve although it had warranty but it didnt cover the wasted time, days & hotel for his tenants, but he some how found on his own that setting those types pass the letter (A) the water heater will over heat, thats whats going on with me, i checked everything spark good, pilot lights well but doesnt stay on & the status lite doesnt come on at all, its like its dead, so i called Co. tech guy told me oh thats an E-Z one & no brainner its your thermopile well let me tell my tenants 4 adults 3 teenagers of how E-Z theyll have it for 4 days without hot water you certified (DA=dumb ass)i still didnt feel good about that, i called my friend & my friend said ill bet you a $100 its going to be the thermo pile, call m back & have them send you new Valve & get on YouTube & sites to get help, these sites are extremely helpful, you save money, time, days waiting for part & most likely youll get wrong diagnosed, so Im gearing up & ready to get hot water for my tenants, its a rotten dirty shame that so many people have gotten ripped off by honeywell & no law suits for intentionally selling theyre valves to the water heater makers they too are at fault, at least those of us that can tinker with things are able to FIY i feel for the people who have get a licence person to install, then several months later have the valve burn out, call Co. then pro to install wrong part, wait more days for correct one ? 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